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I sanded it back with steel wool and recoated sparingly with oil and have repeated this 8 times to get a really great finish. On the last coat (to be the final) I sanded very gently with a wet and dry paper, using it wet, dried the bench then wiped the bench over with a turps rag and then with Haarlem Danish Oil on a cloth, very thinly. It looked great and we went away for the weekend BUT when we got back we found disaster! The bench is showing bare patches in places. Mostly it looks fantastic but there are some/lots of very peculiar bare spots. It looks as though it has gone back to bare wood in places.Well 8 coats is alot of oil and if it is not thoroughly buffed off a few minutes after application the suface may become patchy when dry, ie glossy areas and dull flat patches. This sounds like your situation, so lightly sand the entire surface to achieve an even finish. Dust thoroughly, then rub in an even coat of oil. Make sure you buff the surface almost immediatly with a soft dry cloth, dont let the oil start to tack off. This should enshure a nice even finish. Dont forget your rags are combustable, so hang them out to dry.
Provided the wax isn't really thick, Haarlem Danish Oil or Tung Oil Blend should cut through the wax. You can use 0000 steel wool to apply the oil and this should really help cut into the wax. Buff the oil off really well after a few minutes.
Yes, so long as it has been down for a few days. Clean the surface of any dirt, grease etc, then give a light sand. Single pot polyurethane/alkyd varnish is recommended. Doing a test patch is recommended to check for any intercoat reactions.
Tung Oil Blend and Pure Tung Oil have no drying agents, Haarlem Danish Oil has less that 1% mixture of calcium, zirconium and cobalt.
I am interested in using your oil on my totara floor. It has had a single application of water based polyurethane which marks and stains easily. Can I oil over the top?
Unfortunately no. Oils are designed to soak into the timbers surface so you will need to sand the coating off. Totara can be a difficult timber to coat, the make up of the wood can prevent drying of coatings. I would recommend doing several test patches to make sure the Haarlem Danish Oil dries thoroughly. After applying the oil and letting it soak in for a few minutes give it a good buff with soft dry rags. A minimum of two coats will probably be necessary.
Yes any of the oils can be waxed over the top of. Be careful that you don't use to soft a wax, as these tend to "smudge".
I wish to use Haarlem Danish Oil on a rimu dining suite which has been finished with Shellac. How do I go about this?
You will need to strip the Shellac before coating with oil. This can be done with steel wool and methylated spirits and sanding. To see if all the Shellac has been removed, pour meths onto the dried table top. If there are lighter and darker patches this would usually indicate that Shellac is still present.
This shouldn't be a problem with properly applied Haarlem Danish Oil. Give it a couple of days to really harden up. Tung Oil Blend and Tung Oil will need a couple of weeks in good drying weather to harden up to a really durable surface, but will never be as tough as Haarlem Danish Oil. All the same you will not get any marks with a fully cured product.
Pure Tung Oil should be used on utensils and other thing that food is served with or on. Haarlem Danish Oil is classified as non-toxic when dry and makes for a really tough surface for bench tops and tables. However there will always be traces of the driers trapped in the film, so if your after a totally organic finish use Pure Tung Oil. It is quite thick, so will have to be worked into the timber. Be sure to buff off all excess oil. This product will not go rancid like other oils, will not taint food and is very resistant to household cleaners. Perfect for chopping boards and salad bowls and childrens toys..
Yes it can be added to Haarlem Danish Oil or Tung Oil Blend. An NGR/spirit based or something like colourwood. If using a universal tinter which is used for paint you may find it will "drop out" quickly and will need frequent stirring or shaking.
 
 Yes, Haarlem Danish Oil is very water resistant, it will not mark or stan, but its not totally waterproof either. Polyurethane, which encapsulates the timber is the most waterproof option.
Yes, all Boiled Linseed Oils have a solvent added during manufacture to help the drying process. Raw Linseed Oil is Organic and has no driers added, but fails to harden very well. Pure Tung Oil is the perfect alternative, it dries well and is completely organic.
Yes, it is idea for a natural look that is durable. Ensure that it get 2 days to cure at the minimum temperature before any use.
Simply apply an oil product as soon as possible. 

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